Journal of an Underachiever – On the Beach

One of the first things that made an impression on us, besides the climate, was the ocean. Three beaches immediately come to mind: Tumon Bay, Nimitz Beach, and the Builder’s Club. When we arrived on Guam, I couldn’t really swim. The best I had done up until then was to take a breath and thrash around face down in the water until I had to breathe. Then I’d put my feet down, stand up, and take a breath. Right after we got to Guam we kids got swimming lessons at Nimitz Beach (still there and now a park).

Salt water made all the difference. Instead of sinking (which I still do), I could actually float. I learned to swim well enough that I could go into water over my head. I carried that with me when we found a couple of fresh water swimming holes. I never did learn to flutter kick (still can’t do it).

Dad’s company provided bus transportation to Tumon Bay on the weekends. Back then the only artifacts were picnic tables and trash cans (I think). A sandy beach extended around the entire arc of the bay, and a reef separated the bay from the drop off into the Pacific. The water was so shallow at low tide you could touch the bottom near the reef. Perfect for swimming and shallow diving. Take a look at Tumon now. Hotels all over the place. There’s even a Kmart across the highway. It has become a tourist trap. As a matter of fact it has become the Japanese equivalent of Hawaii.

I remember a few things about Tumon. Coconut palms all over and the occasional fresh coconut within reach. I found out that getting to the nut isn’t easy because it’s protected by a tough husk. I’ve seen movies of natives (Hawaiian) opening the husk with a sharpened wooden stake driven in the ground. A navy hunting knife doesn’t do the job.

Sea slugs and sea stars and sea urchins. The bottom was covered with fascinating fauna. The coral formations I remember were all dead (white). There may have been some live ones out near the reef (the reef was coral after all). Then there were the fish. Flounders and other flat fish abounded. Harder than heck to catch or even to find since they were usually covered with sand. Step near one and they were gone in a swirl of sand. I never so much as saw a shark but I did come face to face with a barracuda. Four inches long.

And then there was the sun burn. I would go to the beach one week and get a light tan. Next week I would go to the beach and get a sun burn. Peel and repeat.

The Builders’ Club was originally a military R&R facility. In fact, the only place I could find a reference to it is as a military facility. It had a restaurant/bar, a snack bar, a salt water swimming pool, and a beach – not to mention picnic facilities. I can still remember eating canned potato sticks from the snack bar. Unfortunately, it was a casualty of Typhoon Allyn (November of 1949 I believe), the storm that drove us out of our houses and into the company headquarters. The Builders’ Club was on the east side of the island, and apparently Allyn struck hardest there. The wind flattened the buildings and surge washed the sand from under the pool, literally cracking it in half. Bye, bye, Builders’ Club. I can’t even find a trace of it on Google Earth.

Last time I did promise my introduction to science fiction, which ultimately led to my writing Peacemaker – The Corona Rebellion 2564AD and now has me writing Teleportal. It goes like this:

We had a local store and a barber shop in Camp 2. The store wasn’t much more than a convenience store, and the barber shop was similarly small, two, maybe as many as four chairs. Besides being the source of necessary haircuts, it was also the local library, at least for magazines. Two of them made a lasting impression on me, Galaxy and Astounding, both science fiction. I quickly became a fan and later subscribed to both.

I had this piece effectively finished Wednesday. Then I remembered having promised that last paragraph. I’ll have to keep from making promises in the future. I’ll stick to my objective of trying to get out one of these each week. Expect my next one on Thursday.

Journal of an Underachiever – Guam, More Camp 2

Guam has mountains, at least that’s what they’re called. Camp 2 was on the slope of Mt. Tenjo. I really believed that it was 7500 feet tall, but looking on the Internet, I discovered that it is 1001 feet instead. On top of that I thought that Camp 2 was north of the Apra Harbor breakwater. Unless they built another breakwater since we left, that can’t be. Of course that explains one of the reasons I couldn’t find Camp 2 when I looked on Google Earth. The other is that the roads that we had have been almost completely obliterated. Based on the swimming hole, the tank farm, and the small stream that appears to be the one that ran through part of the camp, the old roads have all but disappeared.

Perhaps I should write more about boondocks. The trees consisted of short trees with thin trunks (to me at the time it seemed that the tallest were no more than twenty feet). There were deciduous trees with small leaves and a pine-like tree that we called Australian Pines (They had needles, but the needles were segmented). There were also banana trees, papaya plants, and an amazing grass that we called sword grass. The leaves were long, around three feet. When they were green, they were quite literally razor sharp. When they were dead they lost their edge.

A fairly extensive marshy boondocks ran west of the camp from the perimeter road. One of its distinctive features was a nasty little green bee or wasp. Smaller than honey bees, they tended to swarm. Their nests blended into the background, and they attacked anyone who so much as brushed the plant a nest was in. We learned from experience to watch carefully in certain parts of the boondocks and be ready to run ­– really run.

On the east side of the camp we had a picnic area. Right now I don’t remember much about it other than it had a splendid view of the sunset. Just south of it a small boondocks occupied a space less than one hundred feet in diameter. Less underbrush and better drainage made it a lot friendlier (no bees) than the large one on the west. It was surrounded by a loose formation of sword grass plants. We found from them that if you could get past the green blades, the inside of the tussock was a great hiding place.

The rest of the housing area abutted open grassland. At that time Guam had quail. I have no idea how they got there. The only difference I could see between these birds and bobwhite quail was these were much smaller. On one of my first explorations outside of camp I nearly stepped on a female and her babies. I suspect the brown snakes have totally eradicated them.

You would think that being a volcanic island, Guam would be covered by basalt. Instead, the rocks I remember from the open fields were green and were either degenerating into clay or clay solidifying into rock. Some of the green rocks were solid and some were crumbling. The latter could be mixed with water and became a clay like mass. As a matter of fact, when Joe and I built our little dam, we used that clay as a form that we poured the concrete in. I would bet that dam is still there because it filled up with mud after just a few rains and probably was covered by the time the camp was dismantled.

We had wild papaya plants in our boondocks. One day I decided to bring one home so we could pick ripe papayas right beside our house. I carefully unearthed the roots to save as many delicate root hairs as possible. I dug a hole, cautiously put the plant into it, and filled the hole with dirt. I watered that plant conscientiously every day. It had just begun to look like it would survive, when Richard came running around the house, not looking where he was going, and ran into it, ripping the roots from the ground. There went my first and last attempt at agronomy.

Dad’s supervisor and his wife lived in Camp 2. One of the things I remember about them was they had two cats named Bud and Weiser. The other thing I remember is that once a week they hosted a cook out for all the kids in the camp: hot dogs, hamburgers, and Kool-Aid (or coke). They were well attended and were held at the camp picnic area.

I could go on, but I keep coming up with new things related to camp life. I have to cut it off somewhere, and this is as good a place as any. Next up, the swimming beaches and my introduction to science fiction.

Journal of an Underachiever – Guam, Camp 2

Before I started writing this, I had to look at Guam again. I used Google Earth, and I think I found Camp 2, but boy has it changed. I have a pretty solid memory of the layout on our side of the main road. It may be totally erroneous, but I’m pretty sure it’s close. I remember two landmarks that I think are still there.

The south end of the camp almost abutted on a navy tank farm (oil storage tanks), and I found tanks between the navy housing area (Apra Heights) and what I believe was Camp 2. Joe 5 Lee(, Jr.) and I poured a miniature concrete dam on a run-off creek between his house and the nearest tank. And, yes, his name really included the number 5.

What appears to be the other landmark, a swimming hole east of the camp, stands out even from satellite altitude. I remember the spot for a two main reasons. The high school boys challenged each other by jumping into the stream from the cliff that overlooked it, and I was awed by the cliff. Of course, I was ten at the time. Also the mushrooms that grew there glowed in the dark, and I was fascinated by them.

I don’t recall much about arriving in Apra Harbor. Dad picked us up at the ship and drove us to our new home, a Butler building. Butler buildings had sheet metal sides and roofs. I believe we shared ours with another family, we on the south end and they on the north. I don’t recall a thing about them. I just don’t recollect having a back door. How’s that for deduction?

In fact, I only remember two of our neighboring families, or parts of them. To our east lived Dennis and his dog Tippy. We became friends, but I don’t remember anything about them except that Dennis and Tippy were the same age. Across the street to our west were the Cooks. Russ and Laura became close friends with mom and dad. Their daughter, Patty, was closer to Richard’s age.

One of the neighborhood artifacts was a typhoon shelter, basically a white painted building made of steel plates. It had ventilator pipes instead of windows and a solid steel door. I don’t think we ever went in it. As a matter of fact, about a year after we arrived, Typhoon Allyn hit the island with devastating force. Dad’s company, Brown-Pacific-Maxon, evacuated the entire camp. We spent at least one night and one day at the company offices. But Typhoon Allyn comes later in my tale.

Let me see if I can describe the camp. I’m not sure why it was called a camp. Perhaps it had been a camp for the navy. We got there by driving up a road paved with crushed coral and used motor oil. It climbed up a hill that was part of Mt. Tenjo to get to the camp. It wandered through what we Statesiders called boondocks. These days boondocks equates to backwoods, but for us it meant a woods or forest of small trees and bamboo groves.

When the road reached the top of the hill, the boondocks gave way to the camp. I don’t remember what was on the left side of the road when it reached the camp. I think there might have been a motor pool. Farther up the road on the left someone – perhaps the navy or perhaps the company – had scraped out an amphitheater and installed wooden benches and a movie screen. We saw movies for free, and we could bring our own popcorn. One feature I remember was that next to the theater was a shaved ice machine. We could fill our glasses or whatever with shaved ice before we took our seats.

The housing area consisted of Butler buildings and Quonset huts south of the main road. Three roads lead away from the main road in pretty much straight lines. Boondocks abutted the first road on its west side. The Rec Hall and playground occupied the top of the hill between the first road and the second. The Rec Hall also housed the washing machines, and clothes lines filled the large open space that was the recreation area. About the only thing you could do in it was roller skate and jump rope. The chapel stood near the Rec Hall, I think between it and the first road. Once you got past the playground/Rec Hall the houses started.

The third road served as a perimeter. It ran to the south end of the camp, made a sharp right and crossed the other two roads. Then it crossed a dry wash, made a sweeping turn to the right, crossed the wash again plus the other roads, and teed into itself about halfway down the hill from where it started. Understand, this housing area wasn’t huge. I believe I’ve completely described the roads. I can only guess how many families lived there, and it wouldn’t be accurate.

Getting back to the main road: after you passed the third road, you came to the grocery store on the south side. We’d call it a convenience store nowadays. Next to it was the barbershop. A little farther on a dirt road turned off and led back to the swimming hole. After that the main road came to the houses designated for Pacific Island Engineers. There were only a few of them.

I became friends with a boy who lived there. We frequently played in the boondocks by his house. One of our favorite places was a flat faced waterfall that we climbed up and down. It was covered by a thin sheet of water, but I don’t recall ever being concerned that I might slip and hurt myself.

I could babble on about the camp, and I will later, but for now it’s time to wrap up. According to psychologists your experiences when you are ten have major impact on your development. I was ten when we moved to Guam so you can see why it important to me. You’ll be reading more about it in the next issues.

Journal of an Underachiever – Road to Guam

I had planned to begin this installment with the trip from Forest Hill to Guam, but I discovered (as I will once in a while) that I had missed something about Louisiana that was etched into my memory.

While I was in the fourth grade, I made friends with Jessie. I still remember him better than anyone else I knew back then. He lived about a mile south of town on the main highway, and we spent a lot of time together. If I recall correctly, an old railroad spur crossed the highway by his house. Whether we followed that spur and found the old rail yard or he already knew about it (more likely), we spent a lot of our time there. Derelicts from railroad days past lay neglected on the tracks of the yard.

Most of them had disintegrated to the point of being irreparable, but one locomotive still occupies my memories of that time. Unlike most steam engines this one was powered by cylinders on just one side. They turned a driveshaft connected to the drive wheels. After becoming used to the big six and eight driver engines that the Missouri Pacific used, I was captivated by that little engine decaying in the rail yard. The rest of the relics were interesting, even fascinating, but that engine was somehow awe inspiring. I can’t tell you why, but that rail yard and the locomotive still live in my memory.

On a visit to Louisiana before mom moved to California I searched out the rail yard. Weeds had overgrown the tracks and most of the decrepit rail cars had been removed. Unfortunately, that included the little engine. That is one of my last memories of my childhood in Louisiana.

Now back to the narrative.

Shortly after dad sent off his application he was called to someplace in Texas – Houston, I think – for a job interview. It wasn’t long afterwards that he was off to Guam. The rest of us stayed in Louisiana while he got settled in his job and made the arrangements for us to join him. We were finally packed up and ready to go in September (It had to be 1948, but for some reason every time I try to figure it out, I get a different answer).

We (that would be mom, Richard, Susan, and I) took the Missouri Pacific to Lake Charles. We arrived in the afternoon and had some time to kill. I remember two things: there was a lake in walking distance and we had the best fried chicken I ever ate at a café, again in walking distance. (I don’t believe the station was where it now is, but it was probably very close.)

If I recall correctly, we had some relatives come down to Lake Charles to see us off. We caught the train, The Sunset Limited, after dinner. We had tickets for a Pullman car. We sat in facing seats that converted into a lower bunk, while the upper bunk was a fold-down arrangement. Privacy was provided by curtains.

I don’t remember many details. I remember having the first Scribbly Giblet comic book. Scribbly was the prototypical geek. He was a cartoonist who drew an unlikely hero who looked like him. I loved the comic, but it didn’t last. I remember the plains. I think they were in west Texas, but they could have been in New Mexico or Arizona. One other strange memory: we were on the left side of the train. (I have to wonder why certain things get etched into our memories and more important things evaporate. What could possibly be the significance to being on the left side of the train?)

We arrived in Los Angeles in the morning and hung around the station neighborhood until we could board the train to San Francisco. I know the train had a name (Coastliner comes to mind, but I can’t verify that. The current Amtrak train has a different name.) The only memory I have of that morning was that the tracks out of the station were embedded in the pavement so cars could drive over them conveniently.

I think the train to San Francisco was an overnighter because I don’t remember having to spend the night in a hotel, but I’m only speculating. I do remember that San Francisco was cold and we were dressed for the tropics. I don’t remember boarding the ship the next morning other than it simply involved walking up a gangway and turning over some kind of paperwork.

We travelled on a Navy passenger ship. Navy ship names were supposed to honor someone or something. Their passenger ships were named after Army generals. I’m not sure they were really honoring generals or making fun of the Army. One of the ships we took – and I’m not sure it was going to Guam or returning to the States – was the General Anderson.

I don’t remember many details of the trip except that the theater had a matinee every day. I know I saw “The Perils of Pauline,” and it entranced me (probably because of the subtle resemblance to Scribbly Giblet). I also saw a short subject that featured the Benny Goodman orchestra doing “Sing Sing Sing” with Gene Krupa bashing the drums. Part of that performance is available on YouTube.

An aside: I started this with the goal of putting out one segment every week. This one was supposed to be out last Thursday. Rather than adjust my schedule I’m going to do my best to get the next one out this coming Thursday. It will start our stay on Guam. Wish me luck.